BASIL - Stimulating, Uplifting.
BERGAMOT - Uplifting, Calming, Antiseptic. AVOID in Sunlight.

CEDAR - Meditative, Calming, Respiratory Aid.

CHAMOMILE - Sedative, Anti-Inflammatory, Soothes. Relaxes.

CLARY SAGE - Euphoric, Helps FMS, Menopause, Helps Concentration.

CLOVE BUD - Antiseptic, Energizing, Mental Stimulant.

CYPRESS - Stimulant, helps Sore Muscles. Good For Cellulite, Revitalizes.

EUCALYPTUS - Decongestant. Stops Infections Increases Circulation, Helps Arthritis.

FENNEL - Detoxifying, Suppresses Appetite, Tones Muscle, Restores Moisture.

FRANKINCENSE - Warming, Helps Dry, Mature and Sensitive Skin, Centering, Calming.

GERANIUM -Astringent, Celt Rejuvenator, Anti-Depressant, Balancing.

GRAPEFRUIT - Purifying, Refreshing, Skin/hair Rejuvenator.

JASMINE - Relieves Muscle Spasm/Pain Regulates Skin Oil. Excellent to lift spirits.

JUNIPER - Relieves Muscle Spasm/Pain. Effective for Cellulite.

LAVENDER - Most Versatile Oil, Calming, Healing, Cool Burns, Safe For Kids, Sleep Aid

LEMON - Antiseptic, Purifying, Softens Skin. AVOID Sun
LIME - Purifying, Refreshing, Stimulating
MARJORAM - Analgesic, Warming, Calming, Headaches.

MYRRH - Meditative, Cooling, Fortifies

NEROLI - Aphrodisiac, Calming, Skin Rejuvenator, Purifying

ORANGE - Refreshing, Purifying, Restores Skin Balance

PATCHOULI - Warming, Aphrodisiac, Curbs Appetite

PEPPERMINT - Stimulating. Eases Motion Illness Energizes, Fever Reducer.

PETIGRAIN - Refreshing, Mind Stimulant Aids Memory

PINE - Disinfectant, Clears congestion, Aids Circulation

ROSE - Soothes, Reduces Depression, Helps Skin

ROSEMARY- Stimulates, Aids Joint/Muscle Pain. Increases blood pressure. Helps stay alert.

SANDALWOOD - Meditative,, Aid to Dry Skin, Soothing

SPEARMINT - Energizing, Purifying, Mental Stimulant

TEA TREE - Anti-Fungal, Stops Infections, Insect Repellent

VETIVER - Calming, Reduces Anxiety, Natural Deodorant

YLANG YLANG - Aphrodisiac, Relaxes, Exotic Creativity
 
 

 

Almond Oil, Sweet
Sweet almond oil comes from the edible almond and makes wonderful moisturizing bar soaps when mixed with other oils. It saponifies easily and yields a mild soap with good lather. It will turn rancid quickly if not refrigerated or kept in a cool, dark place.  Make sure you list it in your ingredients for some people are allergic to almonds.  Almond oil is rich in protein and offers relief for itchy or inflamed skin.  A favorite of massage therapists.  Contains protein and is rich in minerals and vitamins. Ability to soften skin and especially beneficial for eczema. Excellent penetrating properties and good for all skin types. Relieves itching, dryness, and inflammation. Conditions and provides stable lather to natural soaps. Anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, and anti-irritant. May be used as 100% base oil.

 

Aloe Vera is renown for its healing properties. Aloe is used for many burn remedies. It is known to penetrate the skin much faster then most other oils. Aloe has been used for many things from anti aging to anti inflammatory pain reliever. It is also believed useful with acne. Normal usage of aloe Vera oil at 5-10% in most soaps, creams, and lotions.

 

This oil has been used for centuries in cosmetics as a skin softening agent. It also contains vitamins and minerals and is good for skin that has aged prematurely as well as for sensitive skin. Skin-softening properties useful for all skin types, especially prematurely aged, inflamed, sensitive or dry skin. Conditions and provides stable lather to natural soaps. May be used as 100% base oil.

Avocado Oil

This oil is expressed from fruit and has been used in cosmetics for a long time.  Avocado oil will make soaps rich and very emollient. It contains vitamins, protein, lecithin and fatty acids which make it beneficial for people with dry skin or eczema.  Avocado oil has a high percentage of unsaponifiables, making it an excellent choice to super fat your cold process soap with. It is wonderful in massage oil because of its natural vitamins B1, B2 and A.  Avocado oil, as well as Sesame oil are known to have sunscreen properties.

 

Borage (Borago officinalis) Obtained from the seed of Borago officinalis, has an extremely high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important function in the body, especially the skin. Borage oil also has the highest known content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. These are great skin conditioners. They regulate the hydration of the skin and are humectants.

 

Castor Oil

Castor oil is well known to make lots of lather.  The oil adds mildness and richness to soap and is most successfully used in superfatting.  Commonly used commercially in 50% of lipsticks in the United States. Creates a protective barrier on the skin and is soothing. Castor oil is part alcohol and part oil. It is mainly composed of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid with a unusual molecular structure. Also known as Palm Christi Oil.  Castor Oil the thickest oil in which to make lip glosses.

 

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter improves the overall consistency of soap, making it both creamy and hard. It has wonderful soothing and emollient qualities. It is widely used as a base in cosmetics.

 

Coconut Oil

This is typically a hard white oil at room temperature.  It is easily made a semi-liquid if the temperate goes above 75 Degrees.   This oil is the number one oil for soap makers. Used on it's own, it can tend to dry the skin. It yields a creamy lather and medium hard soap.

 

Coconut Oil, Fractionated

This is the number one oil for true massage type persons.  It is easy to confuse with its sister above which is harder and whiter.  Fractionated Coconut Oil is the coconuts white flesh, processes, yielding oil which is about 90% saturated fatty acid. The fat is heated and the top liquid fraction is removed purifying the oil removing the molds, fungus spores and pesticide residues.

Fractionated coconut oil is a water clear, light textured oil which is odor and tasteless. The cosmetic ingredient name is caprylic/capric triglyceride and it is completely soluble with essential oils. This oil is fine enough to pass through a sprayer making it suitable for perfume and cosmetics requiring a light texture. It can be used as a base or carrier oil for aromatherapy and massage therapy as it penetrates the skin well. It also washes off massage tables easily, is non staining and does not impart a rancid odor on massage sheets rendering it favorite with massage therapists. The molecular structure of the fatty acids gives it an indefinite shelf life. When blended with other oils, this will help extend the final products shelf life.

 

Emu is one of the most expensive but luxurious oils to use.  100% Emu as the lone ingredient makes a very creamy fairly soft bar of soap.  It is naturally opulent appearing to have mica powder in it.  It does take awhile to trace and several weeks to cure, but very much worth it.

 

Flax Seed (Linum usitatissimum)

Flaxseed oil has a high concentration of omega-3 essential fatty acids. It has a superpolyunsaturated nature and is very unstable. It should be refrigerated until made into product. Commonly used for eczema, psoriasis, burns, inflammatory skin and other skin conditions.

 

Grape see oil is used extensively in the cosmetics industry for it pleasant emollient properties and compatibility with lotions and surfactants. Its soothing and healing effects on the skin have been appreciated for generations. It is widely used for hair conditioning and styling, imparting a rich silky luster and enhancing hair growth. Like Sweet Almond Oil, and most other oils, once it is opened, it has a few month shelf life before it will become rancid.  Air starts the oxidation process.

 

This oil is gentle, non-greasy, and is recommended for very dry skin. The shelf life on this oil is approximately 3 months. It keeps best in the refrigerator. This oil is excellent in lotions, creams and facial products and is popular in soap as well. Use it alone as a massage oil or combined with jojoba or sweet almond oil.

 

Hemp seed oil is one of the world's richest sources of polyunsaturated fats, including both of the essential fatty acids (Omega 3 and Omega 6) and GLA (gamma Linolenic acid), which make it an excellent natural emollient and moisturizer. Body care products containing hemp seed oil can reduce skin discomfort by soothing & restoring dry or damaged skin and increasing the natural moisture retention capacity. With regular use, body care products containing hemp seed oil can help slow down the effects of skin aging and leave the skin smooth, soft and moisturized. In hair care products, hemp seed oil imparts gloss and manageability to hair, bringing relief from dry scalp or hair damage by blow-dryer heat, chemical perms, coloring or sunlight.

 

One of the best all-around natural oils that is a liquid wax ester. Mixes naturally with our skin’s fluids because it contains large quantities of an ester almost identical human sebum, the skin’s natural restorative fluid. Contains anti-oxidants, minerals and vitamins, including vitamin E. Helps make skin soft and silky, and is excellent for inflamed skin, acne, dandruff, eczema and psoriasis. Excellent for hair care and reputed to be a natural wrinkle remover. Acts as an emollient and humectant. It retains skin moisture and does not block the skin’s natural functions while performing is own. Good for massage, jojoba by itself will not stain linens. It does not turn rancid and extends the shelf life of blended oils. In its pure form, jojoba makes a natural suntan lotion with a sun protection factor of 4.

 

Lanolin is a derivative of sheep's wool and has been used since the recording of history.  The properties of wool also has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties that protect the sheep's skin.  Some people adore Lanolin in their products.
 

Neem Oil
Used widely in India as an antibacterial, antiviral. antifungal, antiseptic, antiparasitic agent in toiletries, soap, toothpaste and skin/hair care products. It is used to treat skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, syphilitic sores, chicken pox etc. It can be used to get rid of lice and control dandruff. In toothpaste in helps relieve swollen and bleeding gums and kills the bacteria that cause gingivitis. Neem powder can be used in a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. Mixed with clay, it makes a great facial for those with acne and other skin problems. Add to liquid soap base for an anti bacterial hand soap. Use in bug repellant lotion bars to keep the bugs away. Use in pet soaps to kill and repel fleas and to treat hot spots. Neem oil can be sprayed on plants to keep insects from devouring the leaves.

 

Olive Oil
Olive oil makes a very hard bar of mild, gentle, conditioning soap with little bubbles and stable lather. It is slow to trace and is good for sensitive or baby's skin. Highly nutritive and stable. Contains protein, minerals and vitamins. Superior penetrating power.Has acidic and antioxidant values. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables, which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

 

Palm Oil
Palm oil makes a hard bar with stable lather. It hastens trace. It saponifies easily and pulls other oils into saponification more quickly. It should be limited to 20% of the total oils as it may be drying to the skin. If used alone, the resulting soap is brittle with sparse lather.

 

Palm Kernel Oil
Palm kernel oil, not to be confused with palm oil, makes a hard, cleansing, white bar with fluffy lather. It substitutes well for coconut oil. It makes a smooth textured soap. It traces quickly. If it is less than 25% of your total oils, it will make a moisturizing soap; anything more will make a soap that is too drying.

 

The primary use of Evening Primrose Oil in skincare is to treat eczema, and itchy, dry, or aging skin conditions which are caused in part by the skin’s lack of ability to produce GLA.  It is also great for PMS so we use it in our lip balms and lip glosses. 

 

Safflower oil is another unsaturated oil, so it should be used in combination with palm, coconut, or a similar oil. It is valuable for its moisturizing properties.   It can be used as a base for lotions, balms and the like.  These oils are rich in vitamin E. Because these oils are high in omega 6 fatty acids and contain no omega 3's, they are less nutritious than canola and flax oils. Even though they contain 90 percent unsaturated fats, they tend to be highly refined oils. Because the high oleic acid variety of these oils is least damaged by heat, they tend to be favorite cooking.

 

Is rich in vitamin A (protects the skin) and vitamin E. It is high in antioxidants that protect against the sun and air pollution. The sterolins in sesame oil are valuable moisturizers and skin conditioning agents.  Sesame oil is also purported to have sun screen properties, as does Avocado oil,  so we also use this oil in our lip balms. 

 

Shea Butter
Shea butter, also known as African karite butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree. It is high in unsaponifiables, so it is great for superfatting. It makes a hard, shiny, and conditioning bar with stable lather. It traces quickly. Use it in 2-5% of your total fats and oils.

 

Soybean Oil
Makes a nice, hard bar of soap especially when mixed with olive oil and coconut oil.  The ancient Orient cultivated soybeans for its protein, oil and lecithin content. Currently soybean oil is one of the most important oils produced in the United States.  Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used in cosmetics are derived from soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high-unsaturated fatty acid compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce of vitamin E. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

 

Vegetable Shortening
See soybean oil.

 

Use Vitamin E in your fixed oils to help slow the oxidizing process or use it in your soap and lotions as a wonderful anti-oxidant. This is a thick, viscous oil that is easy to mix into lotions and liquid oils.

 

Walnut Oil is a wonderful emollient oil which is high in linoleic acid and aids with moisturizing dry damaged skin.  Both Hazelnut and Walnut are deep penetrating, nourishing oils. They have an astringent action which stimulates circulation. They are well suited oils for dry skin and especially good for use on the feet. These oils are a good source of vitamins A, C, and E.

 

Wheat Germ Oil, extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel, is an emollient with antioxidant properties due to its high, natural Vitamin E content. It also contains Lecithin and a high percentage of essential fatty acids that are vital for healthy skin. It is also used as a natural preservative.  Because it is so high in antioxidants it has a very long shelf life up to one year.